Category: Stockholm

Djurgården Itinerary

UNDER CONSTRUCTION – This is a two day itinerary. Day one is complete, day two is in progress.

Djurgården is a large island a bit south and east of Stockholm proper. The entire island is practically one giant playground for tourists (and locals too). There are a lot of primo things to do here, so you should allow a minimum of two days. And that’s only to do the things I’m recommending, you could very easily spend more time here. So this is a proposed itinerary for you to cover all of the highlights of Djurgården in two days. Below I will summarize each attraction. Note that you can click on the BLUE titles, and a new page will open with a more complete description of that activity.

Remember when planning your days that by mid summer, Stockholm has over 18 hours of daylight per day. Up with the sun means around 3am! But it doesn’t set until after 10pm, so take your time and get a good breakfast before heading out. You should also take some time here to review your maps and see where everything is and the routes you will be taking. Especially if you don’t have a European data package and are using wifi at your hotel.

Djurgården Day One

Start day one at the Vasa Museum. It opens at 8:30, plan on getting there around 9am. Take your time. Definitely start with the movie then do the guided tour. After that, spend time on all 5 floors observing some really amazing exhibits. It takes a couple of hours to get it all.

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Vasa Museum. This museum displays an almost perfectly preserved ship that sank off the coast of Stockholm in 1628. They claim that it is the worlds only fully preserved 17th century ship. And it is completely intact.

 

Once that’s done, it should be pretty close to lunch time. If not, you are already in the middle of an amazingly beautiful part of Stockholm, so walk around and explore a bit. From your morning review, you should already have an idea of where you want to get lunch. There are some outstanding places to eat in this area. Some are further into the park than others and offer a magnificent outdoor dining experience in the park setting.

One of our favorite places to eat in this area is Ulla Windblabh. It’s a little on the pricey side, but the food, wine, and great atmosphere are well worth it. But look around and find a place that works for you. Chill out, unwind, and recharge since you will be doing a lot of walking on the next phase.

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Skansen Park. It’s a museum, a zoo, and a historical town replica. It’s all of those things and all outdoor. There are some rides and activities for children. It also offers some fantastic views of Stockholm.

 

This is the last activity I have planned for you today. That leaves you plenty of time for a happy hour and a great dinner somewhere. I will eventually be creating a restaurant guide to Stockholm, so stay tuned for that. Sign up for a notification when it’s done by clicking the follow button at the bottom.

Djurgården Day Two

 

Vasa Museum

This attraction is located on Djurgården island. To do it Proper, it takes about two hours. It is all indoor. If you want help planning your days on Stockholm and to include this as part of that, go to the Stockholm button at the top and select Djurgården->Djurgården Itinerary. Or click here and I’ll take you there.

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The museum opens at 8:30am most days. This museum displays an almost perfectly preserved ship that sank off the coast of Stockholm in 1628. They claim that it is the worlds only fully preserved 17th century ship. And it is completely intact.

IMG_2712And wow does it ever have a story to tell, you won’t even believe it! As you approach the museum, you will see some very tall masts coming from the building. This is an effect to show how tall it would be if sitting in the water.

Definitely do the free guided tour (English) on this one and allow at least a couple of hours to take it all in. Unlike most museums in Stockholm, this one isn’t free, but it’s pretty cheap and worth every cent (or SEK haha).

 

Free Walking Tour Stockholm

Free Walking Tour Stockholm

Recommendation

The Travelin’ Man’s Overall Recommendation: OK*
(quality of the experience was a little low, but I enjoyed it)

  • What did I like the most: historical information about the buildings and statues
  • What is the biggest area for improvement: tour guide was not very energetic

It felt more like a quick tour of the area around Kunsträdgården than a tour of Stockholm. It was informative and I am glad that we did it. But it felt hurried, and our guide was just not that enthusiastic. So the content was good, but the overall quality of the tour was below average.

I will be taking this tour again and will probably get a different guide. If so and if it turns out to be better, then I will come back and adjust this recommendation accordingly.

Logistics

This is a global walking tour company that works strictly on tips. So while their company title “Free Walking Tours” does imply it is free, keep in mind that it is a job for them and they only get paid from customer tips. The amount of the tip is based on your opinion of how good the tour was. I think generally anywhere from 130 kr to 450 kr (approx $15 to $50). But that’s just a rough guideline that I go by.

The tour we took was called “Free Walking Tour Stockholm.” It’s definitely a tour worth taking, even for locals since you probably walk right past a lot of this stuff but don’t know its history. Our tour was about an hour and a half. The advertisement said it was two hours, and I think two hours would have covered it better.

Our tour guide was Hanna. She did not put a lot of energy into it, but she was very knowledgeable and was able to answer all of our questions. The tour started in Gamla Stan and ended in Kungsträdgården. The advertisement said that it would end at the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. So it looks as though our tour ended quite a bit earlier than it should have.

The Tour

We did learn about some of Sweden’s history, including the gruesome blood bath, but we did not get to see the square where it happened. We did see quite a few statues along the way. Our guide did a good job explaining the statues and their historical significance.

 

 

 

We saw the parliament building, the Royal Palace, and the old church (which is the oldest building in Stockholm). The featured image at the top of this article is the parliament building. Fantastic view. Also probably the best photograph I have ever taken in my life!

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* Each area is rated on a scale 1-5, with 1 = poor, 3 = good, 5 = exceptional
How did this do compared to what I had expected: 2
How well were the logistics handled: 3
Was the staff helpful and friendly: 3
Overall execution and presentation: 2
Total score interpretation: 10

4 – 8 is POOR (was not at all what I expected and/or was not worth the time/money)
9 – 10 is OK (quality of the experience was a little low, but I enjoyed it)
11 – 13 is GOOD (met expectations, would recommend, would do again)
14 – 15 is VERY GOOD (surprisingly good, exceeding on some levels)
16 – 20 is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (outperformed my expectations, great value)

 

Fjäderholmarna Island

Fjäderholmarna Island

Yeah, say that fast one time, haha!

Recommendation

The Travelin’ Man’s Overall Recommendation: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED*
(outperformed my expectations, great value)

  • What did I like the most: Scenic, delicious restaurants, laid back island
  • What is the biggest area for improvement: the boat could be better

Logistics

The tickets were SEK 150 each. The boat is usually a low rider, no frills style, but it’s comfortable enough, and it’s a short ride. It leaves from the Strandvägen ferry terminal. It’s a half hour out, and a half hour back, so if you want to have lunch and explore a bit, I’d plan for at least a couple of hours. The departure and pickup times on the island vary depending on the season, so check online before you go.

Except for Christmas julbord, the cruise is not available after September.

The Island

Hard to believe that a 30 minute boat ride could make you feel like you’re on a mini vacation. Yet that is how we felt as we sat on this island eating our lunch overlooking a beautiful marina. And despite being in the peak of the warm season, it was not crowded and most of the people we saw were from the local area. Very peaceful, quick getaway from the Stockholm hustle bustle.

Fjäderholmarna is Stockholm’s closest archipelago island, and the 30 minute boat ride was scenic and relaxing. It leaves from the Strandvägen ferry terminal and takes you out south of Djurgården.

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You get to see the amusement parks and the huge Viking cruise ships from the water on your way out and back. There is a quick stop at Nacka Strand (both ways), and if you’re lucky, the water spout will be on. What water spout, you ask? Ha, it’s called “God, Our Father, on the Rainbow.” It depicts God, standing atop a 23 meter tall (75 ft) half arch waterfall. You really have to see it to understand, but it is pretty cool. A thousand apologies I didn’t snap a pick while I was there, but I promise I will get one next time and post it here.

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We went out again last week with our friend Brandi. I did get this pic, but unfortunately the waterfall was not turned on. I will keep trying! But at least now you can see what I was talking about. Water is supposed to be shooting out the top.

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Once you get to the island, you’re free to explore and do your own thing. It has a very country feel to it. A couple of decent restaurants (my reviews at the end of this article), some cheapo souvenir shops (they’re actually quite cute), a glass blower and even a real live blacksmith. The blacksmith makes pure silver jewelry which is really quite nice. And if you hike around a bit, you will even discover some WWII relics (but I’m not going to spoil it for you).

 

I recommend sitting on the left side of the boat going out. You’ll get to see Djurgården at its absolute best. On the left again coming back and you will get a great view of the water spout, the amusement park, and the Viking cruise ships.

We like to get on the 11:30 ride out, which puts us on the island at noon. Then we go to one of the restaurants and have a nice leisurely lunch, then a walk around the island. A great way to spend a warm afternoon.

Restaurants on the island that we have been to

As for the restaurants, there are several pretty decent ones there. Mind you, you’re going for the atmosphere and spectacular views, not to enjoy a rare culinary experience. So keep an open mind and be easy…

Fjäderholmarnas Krog

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Venue: It was an absolutely amazing view. It’s like the wide open sea bent around into the little marina and made a small, glass smooth lake in front of the restaurant. We didn’t have a booking, but they were able to take us as it wasn’t very crowded.

 

 

Menu: I got the grilled chicken breast, and Jana got the shrimp salad, and both were very enjoyable and really hit the spot. Reasonably priced, and the service was great.

Drinks: Since we were going to be hiking around, we decided to keep it light and went with water, but they did have a decent looking wine and beer list.

Recommendation: We will definitely come back here again. Highly recommended.

Rökeriet Restaurang Café

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Venue: This is the more formal restaurant of the isle, and they prefer you make a booking. They open at 12 noon. Like all the restaurants on the island, the view is spectacular. This one is to the immediate left when you get off the boat.

Menu: A little pricier than the others on the isle, and it’s primarily Swedish food. I got the Wallenbergare, and it was served hot and was delicious with the house white.

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Drinks: Very good selection of wines and cocktails. They even have a seasonal cocktail menu, including the classic bellini, one of Brandi’s favs and shown above.

Recommendation: If you’re in the mood for the more formal setting and selection, this place is great. I highly recommend it.

Röda Villian

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Venue: As with the other restaurants on the island, the scenery is spectacular. This one is a little different than the others in that it has some woods and more natural terrain to work with. Prices are in line with the others on the island, and really not bad over all. There is no waiter staff. You order at the bar and come get it when it’s ready.

 

 

Menu: I thought it was a “bar and grill”, but looking at the sign more closely, it’s a “bar grill boule”.  I kind of had a different expectation of what I would see on the menu. Open faced hamburger without bun, over the top fancy pizza, spinach and feta cheese pie, etc. And they were all good, just, to me, not bar and grill type of food.

Drinks: They had some decent mixed cocktails, among which was the aperol spritzer, which is what we had. The first round came from an already opened bottle of champagne, so it was a little flat, but the second was fresh and delicious.

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Recommendation: I recommend it with the caveat that you understand it isn’t really a bar and grill menu. I ordered the hamburger. There was no mention that it came open faced without buns. It was incredibly tasty, just not what I expected. But the laid back stance and fantastic scenery of this place make it a must see for the island.

*This rating is for the boat ride, island, and overall experience. Not related to the restaurants directly.

Each area is rated on a scale 1-5, with 1 = poor, 3 = good, 5 = exceptional
How did this do compared to what I had expected: 5
How well were the logistics handled: 4
Was the staff helpful and friendly: 3
Overall execution and presentation: 4
Total score: 16
4 – 8 is POOR (was not at all what I expected and/or was not worth the time/money)
9 – 10 is OK (quality of the experience was a little low, but I enjoyed it)
11 – 13 is GOOD (met expectations, would recommend, would do again)
14 – 15 is VERY GOOD (surprisingly good, exceeding on some levels)
16 – 20 is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (outperformed my expectations, great value)

Skansen

Skansen

 

Recommendation

The Travelin’ Man’s Overall Recommendation: VERY GOOD*
(surprisingly good, exceeding on some levels)

  • What did I like the most: old houses and scenic views
  • What is the biggest area for improvement: speed up the line getting in

Logistics

Skansen is located on Djurgården island. The island is full of great things to do. I have detailed a two day plan that will help insure you hit all the highlights of Djurgården . To see that, go to the top and select the Stockholm button. Then select Djurgården->Djurgården Itinerary. Or click here and I’ll take you there.

You should allow a minimum of 4-5 hours to see all the exhibits and attractions in Skansen, but if everything is open and/or you have kids, it could easily take the whole day.

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The Park

I’m not sure if I should call this a museum, a zoo, or a historical town replica. It’s all of those things and all outdoor, so be sure to check the weather before you go up. It also offers some great views of Stockholm:

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In my mind, Skansen can be logically broken down into three main areas:

  1. An outdoor mini-zoo.
  2. Historic homestead exhibits.
  3. Food and kiddie activities.

The zoo exhibits display some of the animals of Sweden: reindeer, moose, sheep, etc. There’s a pretty decent brown bear exhibit.

The houses and shops for the homesteads were relocated from areas all around Sweden. They are well documented, so you will know what you’re looking at. Some of them have people working in them, dressed in the garb from that era. Blacksmith, furniture shop, bakery, etc. Very educational and well presented.

IMG_2739Lots of good food up in the food area. Sort of like an outdoor food court. But no chain restaurants here, mostly classic Swedish food, and hamburgers and hot dogs type of stuff. There’s some bumper cars and electric (railed) cars and other kiddie rides.

If the weather is not so good, consider going to the Nordic Museum instead. If you do go to Skansen, take your time and absorb it all.

* Each area is rated on a scale 1-5, with 1 = poor, 3 = good, 5 = exceptional
How did this do compared to what I had expected: 4
How well were the logistics handled: 3
Was the staff helpful and friendly: 4
Overall execution and presentation: 3
Total score: 14

4 – 8 is POOR (was not at all what I expected and/or was not worth the time/money)
9 – 10 is OK (quality of the experience was a little low, but I enjoyed it)
11 – 12 is GOOD (met expectations, would recommend, would do again)
13 – 15 is VERY GOOD (surprisingly good, exceeding on some levels)
16 – 20 is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (outperformed my expectations, great value)

 

Stockholm

Stockholm

 

Stockholm, Sweden (stats courtesy Wikipedia)
Pop City Proper: 935,619
Metro Pop: 2,226,795
Municipality: 188 km2 (73 sq mi)
Density: 5,000/km2 (13,000/sq mi)
Elevation: 0 m (0 ft)
Weather: Very cold winters, mild summers
Warm season: May – Sep
Language: Swedish, English is very common
Currency: Even though Sweden is in the EU, they do not accept the euro or any currency other than the Swedish crown (SEK). But they are very modern in that all restaurants, grocery stores, etc prefer credit card over cash.

What’s so special?
Intellectual, fashionable, and very cultural. More than 100 museums, some world renowned. Picturesque, stately beauty of a city on the Baltic. Magnificent palaces, exquisite restaurants, unforgettable boat tours. By mid summer, over 18 hours of daylight per day!

As you may know by now, my wife and I are US expats currently living in Stockholm. So this particular journal is not just for tourists visiting Stockholm, but also for locals looking for things to do and ideas for day trips.

There is so much to do in Stockholm that I can’t possibly just lump it all under one journal called Stockholm. So I have put together an index of all the places I have documented so far (and the list keeps growing). Please click below to see the index:

The Travelin’ Man’s Guide to Stockholm

I will also be setting up a journal under Sweden called Stockholm Restaurants. Whether you’re a tourist or you live in Stockholm, and you are looking for things to do, definitely click on the follow button below since I am adding a lot of Stockholm material. This way you would be notified, but only when I add something new.